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Since the D3100 does not have the Commander mode function for it's built-in flash (an optical system), like the D90 and up have, you have the option of using an SU-800 (about $250, new) on your D3100 hot shoe. The SU-800 has Commander mode and can then be used to optically control Nikon CLS compatible speedlights, including using i-TTL. You can also use i-TTL with a high end radio triggering system for Nikon like Pocket Wizards sells: Pocket Wizard MiniTT1 Transmitter and FlexTT5 Transceiver. Night Portrait mode on a Nikon D3100 This goal of this mode is to deliver a better-looking flash portrait at night (or in any dimly lit environment). It does so by constraining you to using Auto Slow-Sync, Auto Slow-Sync with Red-Eye Reduction, or Off Flash modes. Re: Nikon D3100 focus modes. As newbshooter says, with the display on, press the 'i' button to bring up the settings page. (If the display is off you will need to press the 'i' button twice. The option below ISO, is AF-A and MF as you have already found. If you select the option below this entitled AF-area mode, you can choose, single-point AF, Dynamic-area AF, Auto-area AF and 3D tracking.

The Nikon D3100 is a 14.2-megapixel DX format DSLR Nikon F-mount camera announced by Nikon on August 19, 2010. It replaced the D3000 as Nikon's entry level DSLR. It introduced Nikon's new EXPEED 2 image processor and was the first Nikon DSLR featuring full high-definition video recording with full-time autofocus and H.264 compression, instead of Motion JPEG compression. Night Portrait mode on a Nikon D3100. This goal of this mode is to deliver a better-looking flash portrait at night (or in any dimly lit environment). It does so by constraining you to using Auto Slow-Sync, Auto Slow-Sync with Red-Eye Reduction, or Off Flash modes.

1. M: Manual Mode

M: Manual Mode

Once upon a time, long before digital cameras and program modes, there was Manual mode. In those days it wasn’t called “manual mode,” because there were no other modes—it was just photography. In fact, many photographers cut their teeth on completely manual cameras. Let’s face it—if you want to learn the effects of aperture and shutter speed on your photography, there is no better way to learn than by setting those adjustments yourself. However, today, with the advancement of camera technology, many new photographers never give this mode a second thought. That’s truly a shame, as not only is it an excellent way to learn your photography basics, but it’s also an essential tool to have in your photographic bag of tricks.

When you have your camera set to Manual (M) mode, the camera meter will give you a reading of the scene you are photographing. It’s your job, though, to set both the f-stop (aperture) and the shutter speed to achieve a correct exposure. If you need a faster shutter speed, you will have to make the reciprocal change to your f-stop. Using any other mode, such as Shutter Priority or Aperture Priority, would mean that you just have to worry about one of these changes, but Manual mode means you have to do it all yourself. This can be a little challenging at first, but after a while you will have a complete understanding of how each change affects your exposure, which will, in turn, improve the way that you use the other modes.

When to use Manual (M) mode

• When learning how each exposure element interacts with the others (Figure 4.12)

  Figure 4.12. Since my main subject was in the light, I set the camera to Manual so I could underexpose and keep the sky darker and more blue without worrying about the areas that fell into shadow.

• When your environment is fooling your light meter and you need to maintain a certain exposure setting (Figure 4.13)

  Figure 4.13. Beaches and snow are always a challenge for light meters. Add to that the desire to have exact control of depth of field and shutter speed, and you have a perfect scenario for Manual mode.

• When shooting silhouetted subjects, which requires overriding the camera’s meter readings (Figure 4.14)

  Figure 4.14. While waiting for the sun to rise, I turned to a fellow photographer and used Manual mode to push the foreground elements into complete silhouette.

Setting up and shooting in Manual mode

1. Turn your camera on, and then turn the Mode dial to align the M with the indicator line.
2. Select your ISO by pressing the i button on the lower-left portion of the back of the camera (if the camera’s info screen is not visible, press the Info button or i button).
3. Press up or down on the Multi-selector to highlight the ISO option, then select OK.
4. Press down on the Multi-selector to select the desired ISO setting, then press OK to lock in the change.
5. Point the camera at your subject, and then activate the camera meter by depressing the shutter button halfway.
6. View the exposure information in the bottom area of the viewfinder or by looking at the display panel on the rear of the camera.
7. While the meter is activated, use your thumb to roll the Command dial left and right to change your shutter speed value until the exposure mark is lined up with the zero mark. The exposure information is displayed by a scale with marks that run from –2 to +2 stops. A “proper” exposure will line up with the arrow mark in the middle. As the indicator moves to the right, it is a sign that you will be underexposing (there is not enough light on the sensor to provide adequate exposure). Move the indicator to the left and you will be providing more exposure than the camera meter calls for; this is overexposure.
8. To set your exposure using the aperture, depress the shutter release button until the meter is activated. Then, while holding down the Exposure Compensation/Aperture button (located behind and to the right of the shutter release button), rotate the Command dial to change the aperture. Rotate right for a smaller aperture (large f-stop number) and left for a larger aperture (small f-stop number).

Remember that when you are using Manual mode, it is up to you to decide what is the most important thing to worry about. Do you need a fast shutter? Do you want narrow depth of field? You decide and then you take control. It’s really one of the best ways to learn how each change affects your image.

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